Finishing The Top of a Zip
By Di, Mar 2 2018 05:38PM
Have you ever struggled to get a professional finish at the top of a zip?
I have two methods that work well for both linings and facings. One for a standard zip and the other for an invisible zip. I've used marker pens for the samples, but always check it can be removed before marking the RS of your fabric!
This method works for both a lapped and centred zip. I'm going to show the centred zip, however for the lapped zip you only need to prepare the side of the zip that overlaps, usually the front of a skirt or the left back for a centre back opening
Fold the seam allowance to the right side exactly on the fold line. Mark 15mm from the top edge and also a line where you will be stitching in the zip, usually about 7mm from the fold (10mm for a lapped zip).
Machine from the fold to the vertical line, securing both ends.
Cut down the vertical line exactly to the end of the machine stitch. Trim the fabric to reduce the bulk.
Turn the seam allowance to the wrong side and push out the corner.
Press the fold of the zip opening.
For the centred zip prepare the other side of the opening in the same way.
I've used Wonder Tape to temporarily hold the zip, the top of the zip pull needs to be 3mm below the prepared edge.
Machine the zip.
Interface and neaten the outer edge of the facing.
Open the zip. Put the facing RS against the RS of the garment. Match the top edges, the facing should extend 15mm past the zip.
Machine the the facing to the garment along the top edge. Starting and finishing in the right angle at the top of the zip.
Trim the seam , snip across the corner of the zip. Press the facing away from the garment.
Edge stitch by machining close to the seam through the facing and the seam allowances.
Fold the short edge of the facing to the wrong side exactly level with the right angle made earlier. Press the fold, open up and trim the corner.
Fold the facing to the inside of the garment. Fold the edge of the facing under and slip stitch to the machine stitch that holds in the zip.
Stitch in the zip.
Put the facing wrong side down against the garment, matchng the top edge, side seams and notches.
Fold under the short edge of the facing, pin or finger press the crease.
Try to hold the seam allowances together, flip the facing over so that it's right sides togther.
Machine through the zip seam allowance and the facing about 5mm from the edge of the seam allowance.
Fold back WS together to check the facing is the correct length.
Trim off the extra fabric next to the zip tape.
Turn the facing RS together with the zip teeth on the fold.
Machine the facing to the garment along the top edge. Check both sides of the zip are level.
Snip across the corner and trim the seam.
Turn the facing to the inside of the garment, push out the corners. Edge stitch through the facing and seam allowances as close as possible to the zip. Press.
Sewing advice and tips
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