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Simple Pattern Alteration for a Side Seam Pocket

By Di, Nov 24 2015 12:19PM

This is a simple pattern alteration that makes side seam pockets easier to sew and less bulky.

Depending on your fabric you might want to add a strip of interfacing or seam tape in the seam allowance of the side seam. The edge matching the stitching line. This will stop the pocket opening from stretching and help get a good pressed edge.

Find the markings on the back and front pattern.

Add a strip of paper 15mm wide to both the front and back pattern. This needs to be the same length as the pocket bag pattern.

Transfer the marks for the pocket opening onto the fabric.

When you are ready to sew the pocket, place the pocket bag RS down onto the RS of the garment front, matching the edge of the pocket to the new extension on the garment front.

Do the same with the back.

Machine 15mm from the edge. This will be in line with the cut edge of the garment body.

Neaten this seam with either a zig zag stitch or overlock. If zig zag is used:

> match the edge of your machine foot to the straight machine stitch

> zig zag through both layers in the centre of the seam allowance

> trim the fabric next to the zig zag.

Press the pocket away from the garment, pressing the seam allowance towards the pocket.

> Put the front and back pieces on top of each other, RS together.

> Machine down the side seam, pivot at the original pocket opening marking.

> Stitch around the pocket bag, maintaining the 15mm seam allowance.

> Pivot at the lower mark of the pocket opening.

> Finish the side seam

How you neaten this seam will depend on your fabric and which method you prefer.

1. Overlock or zig zag along the whole length of the seam.


2. Snip diagonally into the corner at the top and bottom of the pocket opening. This will weaken the corner, so add interfacing and stay stitiching round the corner before stitching the front and back together.

> Neaten the edge of the pocket bag, eg binding, overlock, zig zag.

> Neaten the side seam with your preferred method.

Press the pocket bag towards the front of the garment.

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