The Savile Row Coat - Part 4
By Di, Mar 6 2016 02:59PM
The Sleeves ...........................
I have a new tailoring project ready to cut out and I can't find my tailor's chalk ....................so here I am writing about sleeves instead.
Apart from hand finishing the bottom, the sleeves are made up and lined before attaching to the jacket. These sleeves will have fully opening buttonholes, but they are one of the last processes to be stitched.
Both seams are hand stitched and have extra inlay in case they need to be altered in the future. When fitting the toile for the jacket I had to build in some extra room round the upper arm. The linings were also stitched and the most interesting process was tacking the lining seams to the turning allowance of the sleeve, interesting as this tacking remains in place when the jacket is finished.
The bottom of the sleeves with the hem and vent tacked waiting for the hand finishing.
Before fitting the sleeves the armhole has a row of chain stitch added to stop it stretching. The linings are all kept out of the way as the sleeves are stitched. They are eased into the armhole as they are tacked in place .... no machine ease stitching allowed!
By the time the armhole is finished it will have been stitched multiple times! When the back stitching is finished the body lining starts to be attached and the shoulder pads added.
I bought premade pads and added extra shape by seperating the layers, rolling them over my hand and pad stitching back together.
This shows the difference .....................
The shoulder pads are placed between the body canvas and the lining. As the body lining is stitched to the armhole the shoulder pads are stitched as well. Because they are so thick they are stitched again from the sleeve side as well.
To get a lovely roll to the sleeve head you have to add a fleece based strip of fabric. I used a purchased sleeve head that included a strip of canvas, but a double layer of fleece would work just as well. When in place and the sleeve pulled tight over it the sleeve head starts to look quite professional. The sleeve lining can now be stitched to the armhole.
With the sleeves now in it's time for what is called finshing .... in truth it's about loads of hand stitching ....the lapels, collar, linings, sleeve vents, butonholes .... final pressing and buttons ....
Such inspiring work. I'm craving the hand-finishing stage!
Wao! a lot of work in that tailored jacket, great job! I tried a tailor jacket and it wasn't great...
Thanks for the comments ..... It has been a lot of work and I just wouldn't have had the time before I retired. I also have to say that Andrew Ramroop, Master Tailor is an incredible teacher
Sewing advice and tips
Simple pattern alteration for a side seam pocket
Use your overlocker to make buttonhole loops
The Savile Row Coat