Sew-It

with Di Kendall

Working together with Janome - Red Block

Blog

Blog Archive

Writing for Threads Magazine

By Di, Jul 9 2019 12:33PM

Last year I made a silk dupion dress. The design was very simple, but it threw up a few challenges.

The whole dress is underlined with silk organza and lined with silk habotai.

I needed a row of buttons down the back purly as a design feature, however the dress needed a zip. I could have put it in the side seam, but the neck opening was only just large enough to get on without opening, so I needed to put it in the back. I worked out how to add preformed elastic bridal loops as well as the zip.


The neck band fastened with a rouleau loop, but the zip pull interferred with the next button.

Having solved the problem by hiding the zip pull inside the neck band I wrote to Threads Magazine with a proposal for an article. I received the standard automatic response thanking me and explaining it might be a while before hearing if my idea will be commissioned as it would be circulated to all their editors. Knowing the caliber of Threads contributors, Claire Shaeffer, Kathryn Brenne, Sandra Betzina, Kenneth D King, I certainly wasn't holding my breath!


Move on about 6 months and imagine opening my emails to find one from Carol Fresia, Senior Technical Editor at Threads Magazine! Could I write a 2 page spread?


My first thought was ' I can't remember how I did it'!


However; as a writer passionate about developing and passing on garment making techniques this was the opportunity I couldn't turn down.


It was an interesting experience and very different from working with UK magazines. They do all their own photography and have colour themes for each magazine. I chose a fabric and had to make 6 samples to show each stage of the process.

I received some very complimentary emails and was overwhelmed to be asked to send my bio and profile pic. I'd been chosen as one of four featured contributors for the September issue which has arrived in the UK this week.

They even included me as their Instagram story!



Now I'm going to share a different technique I developed on the sleeves of the dress.

First of all, I don't like making covered buttons and buckles. My go to solution is Harlequin They use your own fabric to create all sorts of accessories at great prices and with such professional results really quickly.


The problem I had was the shank buttons wouldn't sit flat as a decorative feature on the sleeves. Here's my soloution.

The sleeves were marked with thread tracing where I wanted the buttons to be. It's worth noting that I'd never use any colour on silk, white or other expensie fabric. Even coloured thread can leave fibres that are impossible to remove.

I worked machine made eyelets exactly where the buttons would be. I could have done them by hand, but the only peron who'd ever see them was me!

The button shanks were pushed through the eyelets and hand stitched in place using a fine John James between needle and Gutermann silk thread. The stitches were worked through the eyelet. Silk Thread is available from Sew Essential

The buttons sit really flat aginst the fabric.

Add a comment
* Required
RSS Feed

Web feed

Sewing advice and tips

Simple pattern alteration for a side seam pocket

Use your overlocker to make buttonhole loops

20160811_151311 (2) commended_blogger_feature

The Savile Row Coat