McCall 7375 Stitching the Band
By Di, Mar 8 2018 01:47PM
McCall's 7357 is a free pattern with Love Sewing magazine. It has a range of sleeve variations and the free copy is size 6-22. One of it's positive features is that it has differnt cup sizes, making the largest finished bust size 52"
I'm a 40" bust and made size 14, 2 sizes smaller than the measurement chart suggests. It's described as Loose fitting, The ease chart shows that a loose fitting top will have 5 1/2 and 8" of additional design ease added to standard wearing ease.
This is an easy pattern to make except for the front bands.
It's really quite tricky to fold the edge of the inside band to match the outer one and then slip stitch.
I have a quicker and easier way to achieve a great finish.
Start by preparing the front and neck bands. Interface one layer, stitch the shoulder seams. Place the bands right side together, stitch round the neck edge. Trim the seam allowance to 7mm, snip the shorter curves and cut notches out of the longer curves.
Press the seam allowances towards the under band(I've used white for my inside layer so the design doesn't show through the top layer).
Edge stitch close to the seam through the band and the seam allowances.
Fold the band so that the seam is just to the wrong side. Press and machine baste the cut edges together with a long stitch. Snip the curved edges.
Stay stitch the neck edge of the garment. This should be a short stitch very close to the stitching line.
Cut diagonally into the corners, really close to the stay stitching.
Put the band RS to RS of the garment. Keep the cut edges together, match the shoulder seams and notches.
At the bottom the bands should end 3cm lower than the cut edge.
Machine all round the neck edge. Start at the bottom of the opening, roll the garment fabric out of the way so that the stitching is right at the corner formed by the stay stitching.
Neaten the seam. I've overlocked the edge, but you can zig zag. Keep the left edge of the foot against the straight stitch. Zig zag through both layers and trim off the extra fabric very close to the stitching.
Fold the garment exactly at the bottom of the opening, along the stay stitching. Bring the bands to lie flat on each other(They should be edge to edge, but I made mine slightly wider).
The narrow piece at the bottom of the opening needs to lie flat against the bands. Machine across all the layers exactly 15mm from the edge. Don't catch in the folded fabric at either end. Neaten the edges with an overlocker or zig zag/trim.
Fold down the garment front and press.
The opening is very low for me, so I've stitched the two layers together, otherwise I'd need to wear a tank underneath it.
What was the actual measured size of the garment across the bust please? I usually have to do a FBA as I have a large bust and small back, but might not have to do that with this pattern.
Love your choice of fabric and the alternative way of construction. Good to know that the low top can be easily adjusted.
I will get the pieces out tomorrow and have another try at it. Thsnks for your help, i was ready to throw it all in the bin! And I have been dressmaking for about 50 years!
I really struggled with this as well, thought it was me as I’m just getting back into sewing. I will use the pattern again but follow your method come the facing.
Hi. Thanks for asking about this. The finished bust sizes are size 12 - 40" , size 14 - 42", size 16 - 44" Just be aware that the front is going to gape if you don't leave enough room. I'd consider using different sizes for front and back.
Good luck with it.
I need to find photos or some type of assistance with sewing the bank to the back side. The front has been successfully sewn. The back though...
Hi Terri. I’m guessing the problem is because the edges are different lengths. However the stitching line will be the same length on both pieces. Use a short stitch length to stay stitch the edge of the top. This is through the single layer of fabric, approx 14mm from the edge. Then cut about every cm from the edge to the stitching, this will allow the edge to open up and spread out so you can pin it to the neck band.
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