By Di, Feb 10 2020 04:08PM
September 2019 I was asked if I'd like to be one of the bloggers featured in the Simplicity Hack along.
This is an extended version of my article that was published in the December issue of Sew Today magazine.
Simplicity are using the Hackalong to help raise awareness of female cancers by supporting the Eve Appeal along with some amazing prizes from Janome.
There were 9 patterns to choose from to adapt to create your own individual outfits.
If you're on social media you can see some of the great creations by using #hackalongday #hackalongparty #hackalongvintage
I chose to combine Simplicity 8992 and 8701 to create a unique jumpsuit.
I know rules are there for a reason, but with years of experience I do like to break them! It's important to understand why a rule exists and to appreciate the impact your choices can make to the outcome. 8992 is designed for knit fabrics, but I was fairly certain I wanted to use a woven fabric for my jumpsuit. I decided to make a cardigan from fabric I'd had since last year to give me the opportunity to asses the fit, especially across the shoulders and bust areas.
My cardigan has been worn a lot, both as a tunic and for layering on colder days. I was happy with the amount of ease and the set in sleeve seam sat well on my shoulder. However the sleeve pattern is slim fitting, but not tight. This made me wonder how I could design a sleeve that would give just a bit more movement in a woven fabric.
The trousers are close fitting round the hips with a curved waistband and wide legs. I usually wear narrow trousers as they make me look taller. If I was going to wear a wide leg I needed a fabric that drapes well and has flow.
I headed to an area just out of the city centre that has many multi cultural influences and shops specialising in fabrics for traditional Asian clothing. My favourite shop prices their fabrics to make a suit consisting of 3x2m coordinating pieces of 115cm wide fabric. Now I had my fabric my challenge was to combine the two patterns whilst making the best use of my fabric, one with a border down both selvedge edges.
I cut the trousers first creating a wrap around style using the border down the front edge. I wanted a soft elasticated waist that would pull on without a fastening. To achieve this I joined the pattern pieces together at the side seam and extended the top edge so the crotch depth was slightly longer than I use for fitted pants. This will allow enough room for the elastic casing. I then cut the front legs again out of plain fabric. Once I'd stitched the body seams I overlaid the two fabrics, stitching the two layers together at the side seam down to about knee level to stop them opening up when worn.
The bodice was cut to make best use of the border design with a seam down the centre back. I also straightened the side seams from the underarm to the waist as I needed to be able to pull it on over my hips.
I made the sleeve pattern by joining the underarm seam and copying the centre area so they over lap at the sleeve head to make what I call a tulip sleeve.
The sleeves were cut from plain fabric and another part of the border design that was left over, the seam isn't on the original underarm seam, its where made the best use of the fabric. This created movement room as it can open up over the biceps.
Before joining the two pieces together I felt the trousers would benefit from pockets, however I'd omitted the side seams. I cut a pocket bag and used it to make a faced opening, reinforced by lightweight fusible interfacing. The pocket bag extends up so its stitched in with the elastic casing.
The waist seam was stitched using a 15mm seam allowance on the trousers and 3cm on the bodice. The longer allowance was pressed down and used to make the elastic casing.
I'd originally intended the trousers to have the same hem shape as the sleeves, however I felt that it would spoil the border print so I let the wrapover fall vertically whilst shaping the under layer. I feel this jumpsuit can be worn as casual wear, but also has elegance for more formal situations.
I still had 2.5m of fabric left over so i used it to make Vogue 1642
Sewing advice and tips
Simple pattern alteration for a side seam pocket
Use your overlocker to make buttonhole loops
The Savile Row Coat