The Savile Row Coat - Part 5 - finishing
By Di, Apr 20 2016 04:38PM
I had to wait ages for my buttons to arrive, so I have been working on a number of commisions and adding a few pieces to my summer wardrobe .................think I was misguided by some warm weather, it's pretty cold here today!
I'm sorry Part 5 of the blog has taken so long to publish, however the blazer is now finished and I hope to send my photos off to Mastered who will assess how succesful I've been.
Usually what I think of as finishing is checking over my garment to be sure I've trimmed off thread ends and giving the item a final press and of course to wear it. I knew there was still some fundamental processes still to do on my Savile Row Coat .............but a whole module was called Finishing!!!!!
Tasks still to do included:
> hand finishing all round the fronts and lapels to attach the facings,
> stab stiching and cross stitching the collar pieces,
> shaping the lining around the inside pockets,
> stitching the lining into the jacket at the collar and front edges,
> stab stitching the front facings near the inner pockets to stop the lapels distorting when using the pockets,
> hand stitched buttonholes,
> final pressing
> Sew on the buttons
An unexpected finishing touch was to stitch through the collar just below the roll line to help keep a sharp line.
Making the collar has been really interesting as the process is totally different to dressmaking. I wish now that I'd chosen a Melton and/or thread with a greater contrast to the main fabric. It would have made a great feature. I've already decided that I will use contrast thread on my own coat.
Here the lining has been stitched to the front facings, exposing the pockets.
I f you look carefully there is a line of stitching through the facings and canvas layer starting at the edge of the breast pocket. Care had to be taken not to actually stitch in the pocket bag too. This allows the pocket to be used whilst maintaining the shape at the front of the jacket.
The following pictures are of the back vents.
The stripe is maintained at the hem.
This last photo is the top of the vent, here I made 2 rows of stitching keep the facing flat and to take strain when sitting, The stitching is throgh all the layers, except the outer one.
For quite a while a had been secretly dreading the hand worked buttonholes. I had spent hours working on the jacket and then had to punch holes in it, there would be no second chance. I decided that 'practise makes perfect' was the only way forward.
Having the correct materials made a big difference and the leather punch I inherited from my mum, who I think probably inherited it from her parents ...... it's much sturdier than modern ones. Silk buttonhole twist and gimp from www.kentontrimmings.co.uk have made me a total convert to handmade buttonholes.....
All bastings removed and ready for the final pressing. According to Andrew Ramroop of Maurice Sedwell this could be the last time their suits would be pressed for a very long time, as Savile Row suits are often left to air rather than being sent to be cleaned!
here are a few images of the finished blazer..................
Sewing advice and tips
Simple pattern alteration for a side seam pocket
Use your overlocker to make buttonhole loops
The Savile Row Coat