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Lady McElroy Fabrics
I'm drawn to lots of fabric due to it's design, texture, colour etc. However, buying online means I can't touch it to really understand what it's like and if it's suitable for what I want to make.
Fabric manufacturers and sellers use so many different terms to describe their fabrics.
I'm going to try to describe some of the many fabrics in the Lady McElroy range. This isn't about the design of the fabric, it's about the fibre content, weight, drape, weave, knit type, stretch etc and the type of garment it might be suitable for.
Some Lady McElroy designs are printed onto different fabrics with different properties and characteristics so it's worth searching the design name to see if it's available in a different type of fabric.
Lady McElroy fabrics are also available from Sherwoods Fabrics where you'll find even more wonderful fabrics, including Liberty.
Nicole Voile - Bon Voyage - silk/cotton
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Bubble Crepe
Composition: 97% polyester 3% Spandex
Construction: Woven crepe
Weight: 125gsm
Stretch:
Width: 145cm
Description: A very lightweight crepe fabric with a distinct surface texture, but due to the fine threads it's not bulky. This is very similar to Cyril crepe, but perhaps just a bit firmer..... It drapes beautifully and would work really well cut on the bias. It has what I would describe as natural give in both directions, but definitly not a stretch fabric despite the 3% Spandex. Perfect for loose fitting tops, blouses, camisoles, especially things with flounces and ruffles as it'll gather beautifully. Floaty dresses and skirts would need lining.
Use size 60/70 standard or microtex needle with a 2mm or shorter stitch length
Aftercare: Wash at 30C
Cyril Crepe
Composition: 97% Polyster 3% Spandex
Construction: Woven crepe
Weight: 125gsm
Stretch:
Width: 145cm
Description: A very lightweight crepe fabric with a distinct surface texture, but due to the fine threads it's not bulky. It drapes beautifully and would work really well cut on the bias. It has what I would describe as natural give in both directions, but definitly not a stretch fabric despite the 3% Spandex. Perfect for loose fitting tops, blouses, camisoles, especially things with flounces and ruffles as it'll gather beautifully. Floaty dresses and skirts would need lining.
Use size 60/70 standard or microtex needle with a 2mm or shorter stitch length
Aftercare: Wash at 30c
Heidi Lawn
Composition: 100% cotton
Construction: Plain weave
Weight: 78gsm
Stretch:
Width: 140cm
Description: A light weight even weave cotton fabric typical of cotton lawn. I think it might be even softer after it's washed. Perfect for loose fitting summer tops, blouses & camisoles. Dresses and skirts would need to have full skirts and will probably need lining.
Use size 60/70 standard or microtex needle with a 2-2.4 stitch length
Aftercare: Wash 30°C Medium iron
Juliet Jersey
Composition: 96% Viscose 4% Spandex
Construction: Knitted single jersey
Weight: 180gsm
Stretch: Horizontal 40% Vertical 30%
Width: 150cm
Description: This is a really lightweight single jersey that feels delicate, but not fragile! It has a very slight sheen and feels luxurious. Viscose is great as it is cool to wear in summer and good for layering in winter. Perfect for tops, vests, styles that need soft drapey fabrics. It'll gather well, but would need to be lined for dresses and skirts.
Use size 60/70 ballpoint/jersey/stretch needle. As this as some vertical stretch experiment with stitch types, possibly a lightning or very small zig zag... width 1/length 1. Another option will be to use Gutermann Maraflex thread.
Aftercare: Wash 30°C Medium iron
Loretta Lawn
Composition: 97% Viscose 3% Spandex
Construction: Plain weave
Weight: 125gsm
Stretch: 10%
Width: 140cm
Description: The small amount of Spandex in this fabric makes it a bit heavier and firmer than most lawn fabrics. It also gives the fabric a small amount of stretch making it comfortable for closer fitting bodices. It's suitable for tops, dresses, loose fitting summer trousers and skirts. The Spandex gives it body meaning it holds structured shapes much better than most lawn fabrics. It is easy to sew, presses well and doesn't crease easily.
Use size 80 standard or microtex needle. Stitch length 2.4mm
Aftercare: Wash 30⁰C
Nicole Voile
Composition: 55% Silk 45% Cotton
Construction: Plain weave
Weight: Having sewn with this I'd say it's below 50gsm
Stretch:
Width: 140cm
Description: This is a truly luxurious lightweight cloth. It feels like wearing silk. It drapes and gathers beautifully and is almost translucent. Perfect for tops, blouses, lingerie. However many garments would need lining. It moves a lot whilst working with it, especially when cutting out. Using spray starch to stabilise it whilst cutting and sewing might be a good idea. However that does change its characteristics if you like to try things on whilst making.
Use size 60 needle and a very short stitch length to avoid puckering(1.8mm) Keeping the fabric taught whilst sewing, but not pulling it through the machine, imagine it's held in an embroidery hoop as it moves under the foot.
Aftercare: Hand wash Dry clean
Rickardi Lawn
Composition: 100% Viscose
Construction: Plain weave
Weight: 115gsm
Stretch:
Width: 140cm
Description: An even weave fabric that's heavier than Heidi lawn, with a softer finish. It's not shiny, but has a quite smooth, matte finish. It has very slight horizontal give, but definitely not stretchy. Drapes well and would work well cut on the bias. Perfect for dresses, tops, vests, hareem pants and styles that need soft drapey fabrics. It'll gather well, but would need to be lined for dresses and skirts, especially if it's in pale colours.
Use size 70 standard or microtex needle with a 2-2.2mm stitch length
Aftercare: Wash 30°C Medium iron
Samba Crepe
Composition: 94% Polyester 6% Spandex
Construction: Woven crepe
Weight: 258gsm
Stretch:
Width: 150cm
Description: A mediumweight fabic with just a slight crepe texture. The Spandex gives it a slight stretch which will make it comfortable for close fitting garments. Suitable for structured garments, including dresses, lightweight jackets, skirts and trousers.
Use size 80 or even size 90 if sewing multiple layers. Stitch length 2.5mm and longer for multiple layers.
Aftercare: Wash 30°C Cool iron
Stretch Cotton Sateen
Composition: 97% Cotton 3% Spandex
Construction: Twill/Sateen Weave
Weight: 258gsm
Stretch:
Width: 150cm
Description: Cotton sateen is made with smooth threads running along the surface of the fabric which give it a slight sheen. It's a medium weight, firm cotton with very slight stretch due to the 3% Spandex which makes it comfortable for fitted styles. Suitable for structured clothes including blouses, dresses, skirts. Gathers will be quite bulky. It works well for sculptured styles as features like ruffles which will hold their shape.
Size 80 standard needle. Stitch length 2.4mm
Aftercare: Wash 30°C Medium iron
Swimwear Jersey
Composition: 92% Polyester 8% Spandex
Construction: Knitted single jersey
Weight:
Stretch: 50%/50%
Width: 145cm
Description: 40% stretch in both directions. A good quality fabric for exercise wear. It has a soft feel and isn't shiny…based on my sample called Batlow. Light coloured fabrics will need lining if used for swimwear. Perhaps a bit thin for leggings as it could become see through when stretched.
Size 70/80 stretch or ballpoint needle. Overlocking is perfect for this fabric, however there's loads of advice about sewing swim and activewear in my tutorials. You can now buy stretch thread which would be perfect for this fabric ...Gutermann Maraflex
Aftercare: Wash 40°C
Trudi Chambray
Composition: 60% Linen 40% Viscose
Construction: Plain Weave
Weight: 196
Stretch:
Width: 145cm
Description: A light to medium weight fabric with slubs that are trditional to linen fabrics. The viscose content means it doesn't crease like 100% linen. It could be cut on the bias as it has limited drape. It would be beautiful for tops, blouses and dresses.Too lightweight for trousers, but fine for summer skirts and dresses, but might need lining.
Size 70/80 standard needle. Stitch length 2.4mm
Aftercare: Wash 30°C
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