Narrow Bias Facing
I really don't like trying to stitch both sides of a bound edge at the same time, equally I'm not a fan of preparing the folded and pressed binding either! If I want an edge where you see the binding on both sides I do it in two processes, opening out one edge of the binding, stitching in the crease, then folding the binding and either machining or slip stitching the second edge..
Another problem with binding an edge is making sure the finished edge is actually on the stitching line. Unless the pattern is designed for a bounding you need to cut off the seam allowance before stitching the bias strip as the armhole or neck edge will be too small.
I'm going to show you the method I prefer thats often used on purchsed clothing for binding an edge on both woven and knit fabrics.
Cut bias strips twice the width of the finished binding plus seam allowances. For knit fabrics cut the strip from across the width of the fabric.
Click HERE to see how to join bias strips together.
Fold the binding in half with the long cut edges together. Press the folded edge.
Machine baste through both layers of the binding 1mm inside the seam allowance. I use the machine foot to help, keeping the edge an even distance from the fold. If you prefer, you can place the folded edge against the edge of the foot and adjust the needle position.
Place the binding onto the right side of the garment. The line of machining should be about on the stitching line of the garment. Pin in place and tack if you prefer.
Machine through all 3 layers with the needle position immediately to the left of the stay stitching on the binding. Trim the seam to 5mm.
Press the binding and the seam allowance away from the garment. Understitch through the binding and the allowances, very close to the seam.
Press the binding to the inside and stitch close to the folded edge.
This gives a line of top stitching on the right side.
If you want the binding to show on the right side.
Put the binding against the wrong side of the garment. I prefer not to understitch so there's only one line of stitching visible on the binding.