Sew House Seven Hoodie pattern- Simplicity 8790 in Lush Alpine Fleece
Updated: Nov 28, 2022
I was inspired to buy Simplicity 8790 after seeing someone else's version on Instagram. The pattern had pssed me by as the cover photography is so dull and blurry!
There are 4 views to be made and they fall into 2 different types of sleeve with different necklines and pockets.
Views A & B have a dropped shoulder and the hood at the front is a sort of loose fitting funnel. View A has an elasticated waist seam and large patch pockets. Whilst views C & D have a raglan sleeve and the hood crosses over at the front. View C has a large pouch pocket with curved cut out openings at each side.
Sizes XS -XL (bust 30 - 46") are included in the envelope.
Suitable for knit fabrics with 50% stretch. Remember you can buy my Stretch Ruler from my shop
I've made view C twice in very different fabrics and both have worked well. Think I fancy the other hood version as well.............................
The really lush Alpine Fleece came from Caboodle Textiles, an online store that occasionally have open days with offer prices at their base in Pleasley Vale just off J29 of the M1 in Derbyshire.
I couldn't resist putting my own twist on this pattern to show off the faux fur type pile inside this sweatshirt type fabric.
The curved pocket openings have a facing, so for this version I made it so it shows on the right side. The raglan seams sewn WS togther so the seam allwances show on the RS and the hood seams and edge also have the fluffy side turning out to the RS.
Before sewing these pieces I overlocked the exposed edges with bulked nylon on the loopers then top stitched. You could use whatever thread you have on your overlocker, I just happened to have the right colour bulked yarn.
The pouch pocket has a row of machining across the top and bottom and I did take a bit of care to help keep the lines straight by drawing a chalk line to follow. The twin needle stitching is quite obvious, perhaps because the fabrics is so thick. A single line of stitching might have been better. I also used the twin needle round the neckline after overlocking.
That reminds me! As the fabric is thick it was quite bulky where the layers cross over at the front neck. I machined the seam on my machine. Before overlocking I trimmed the allowances so they didn't have to feed under the overlocker blades.
This is the top I designed the Thumbhole cuff
You can Download the FREE PDF and instructions to use on any stretchy straight sleeve
Think I'm off to raid my stash for some T-shirting to make view B.....see you later!
Having looked more closely at the pattern you can't mix and match the different styles of hood. It is possible, but you'll need to use both front pattern pieces to get the correct neck shape. I matched the CF and the waist marking.
To use the snood hood with the raglan sleeves you need to cut the higher neckline and the lower neckline to use the crossover hood with the dropped sleeve versions.
Next I made View B in a very lightweight jersey and I'm happy with the result, comfortable, but not too baggy. However; my bust measure 40" and I made the Medium(36"-38") which gave 4" of ease when finished. The sleeves are quite narrow so watch out if you often need a bicep adjustment.
The hood is really a snood, I can't see me wearing it up as its really snug, but good under a coat for running or winter walking. With the hood down it'd be really cosy in a thicker fabric.
Then I wondered what would happen if I left off the hood and the sleeves.
Before cutting out I decided to make the armhole deeper by making the shoulder seam less angled....by about 2cm giving an extra 4cm round the armhole. This would be a good way to gain extra room for a bicep adjustment, then you'd need to slash the top of the sleeve and spread to make the top edge 4cm longer.
Now how to finish the neck and armholes?
You could add a band like a traditional T-shirt, cut the fabric strip the length of the neck seam(not the cut edge) minus 20% x twice the width plus seam allowances on all the edges.
The armhole could have a narrow hem or cut a wider band the same length as the armhole seam x twice the finished width + seam allowances, which you could roll back if you wanted.
My finish wasn't as succesful as I hoped because my fabric didn't roll as much as I expected! It's just a strip of fabric cut across the width of the fabric. One edge sewn to the garment and the other left unfinished. Many single jersey fabric roll annoyingly and that characteristic can be great for finishing t-shirts and sweats.....just not on this occasion.
I'm off to Pilates to give them a test drive....... Please get in touch with any questions